Áine Mac Giolla Bhríde
Double Jetted
20 February - 15 March 2025
Face to face weft to weft you have to sew two long, parallel lines
with hard joining right angles before you do anything else. The front
of the jacket is pretty much constructed at this point – darts, canvas,
padding, lapels that have been rolled and have the lining attached.
You sew the line and pivot the fabric with the needle still down so its’
a good 90. Then you cut. It has to be a dead middle otherwise the
lips won’t match or meet where the slit has been made, cut triangles
right into the corners at the edge. Now fold the pocketing fabric
through the opening into the inside, lapping the upper lip over the
bottom so it lies smooth and the bottom is folded again, with the
mitred corners tucked under and press hard. Place the pocket
backing fabric underneath and sew the long parallel box again front
side up, slowly this time, so it catches everything, making sure your
stitches get right into the line of the folds yo’ve made, so you can’t
see them. That’s the whole point – folding and repeating so you can’t
see the work thats gone into it at the end.
Rosie Woodhouse
